walking on water

It is when we recognize the simplicity of surfing that we begin to see past the clichés of beaches, bikinis and blond hair. It is the sight and sound of a tall building being tossed from the sea, collapsing on a remote shore and engulfing a man armed with nothing but a board.  Now we begin to understand. We begin to realize that surfing wasn´t born in brochures or on Hollywood  sets. It was born when a man somewhere decided to temp the ocean. He was naked then and now, paddling out into one of nature´s greatest unknows. and when he jumped to his feet and first rode down that mountain of water, he was perhaps as close as man will get to walking on water...